An important expression of food culture in Afghanistan is the dastarkhan, a spread of dishes arranged on a tablecloth that might be laid on the floor. The meal might be simple tea and bread for the family, or it could be a feast running to dozens of plates including Kabuli pilao, kormas, dumplings, breads, salads and sweets. Different customs apply depending on the ethnic group but include the designation of a tea pourer, placement of the best dishes near guests, and the rule that one must never step on or over the dastarkhan. Strife-torn Afghanistan is now an undeniably poor country, but as expatriate Afghani food lover Ryla Smith says that some of the poorest countries in the world come up with amazing dishes. No matter how hard-pressed, the Afghans treat their guests with immense respect and will go to great lengths to serve them the best food possible. Afghan cuisine is mainly influenced by that of Persia (Iran), India and Mongolia. From India came chillies, saffron, garam masala (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, nutmeg) and pepper. Persia contributed coriander, mint and cooking with sabzi (spinach or green herbs), while Mongolian influences take shape in dumplings and noodles. But Afghan cuisine has a style of its own. Fatty dishes are an important fuel in this nation of harsh landscapes and freezing winters, with oil used liberally and mutton fat traditionally added to many dishes. Unlike some in their region, Afghans like their food neither too spicy nor too hot, and they are renowned for their use of dried fruit and nuts. They have a flair for rice, with yoghurt used as a dressing, topping or accompaniment, much like Italians use cheese. Meals are eaten with the right hand, using bread as a scoop. The two main types are similar to those of Pakistan, India and Iran: a large round, flat bread (lawash) and a naan-style bread marked with distinctive grooves, commonly sprinkled with sesame and nigella seeds, and cooked on the inside walls of a clay oven. Rice is a specialty and considered the best part of any meal.